As you search for a lawn care service that is able to help you grow a healthy lawn and trees, it is important
to keep certain criteria in mind. An effective year-round lawn care program is not just a matter of mowing the grass in the summer and conducting occasional lawn maintenance.
Learn more about your lawn care services strategy and methods. For example, using organic fertilizers and conducting soil tests before diagnosing a problem is the mark of a quality lawn care program.
You may discover the best lawn service for your home by speaking with neighbors. Other residents in your town often have advice regarding lawn care professionals who have transformed their properties into green lawns with beautiful trees and shrub beds.
It is also helpful to conduct research online. Investigate the lawn care services near you and find out whether they offer the following services and benefits.
Does Your Lawn Care Company Offer Quality Service?Lawn care companies that employ agronomic experts and provide skillful execution of lawn maintenance techniques at a reasonable cost are usually the most sought-after. In a competitive market, prices for lawn care programs may often be similar, but the quality of service varies widely.
It is wise to be wary of companies that claim to offer services that are much less expensive than those offered by most lawn care companies in your region. You should also avoid companies that do not provide a contract detailing what you should expect as a client.
Your lawn may require any number of maintenance techniques. The following services offered by lawn care professionals are the most desirable:
How Flexible Is Your Lawn Care Service?The lawn care professionals you hire should be willing to make adjustments in their routine application schedule. If you wish to skip the early spring fertilization and fertilize in the late fall instead, your lawn service should be accommodating to your needs. While agronomic experts advise the best lawn maintenance routines, the clients wishes always come first.
Are Your Lawn Care Professionals Well Trained? The amount of time it takes to train a lawn care technician varies by company. All applicators should have the ability to identify grasses, weeds, insects and diseases. They should also fully understand what treatments they are applying, the reason for the application and proper application techniques.
Applicators must be experienced in order to diagnose problems and take care of lawn issues. Your lawn care company's ability to retain employees offers insight into each technicians professionalism.
Finding the right company to help you grow a green lawn and healthy landscape does not have to be a challenge when you have the resources you need. Reading more about proper lawn maintenance and the services your lawn care company should provide helps you better understand what you are looking for.
If you have questions regarding the best lawn care program for your home or how to solve specific lawn issues, a lawn care expert should be available to offer you assistance. Don't hesitate to reach out when your lawn has problems that need to be addressed.
Ready to discover lawn maintenance routines for a healthy lawn all year? Learn how to customize your lawn care program for every season.
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Most grassy weeds are undesirable grasses that germinate and grow in lawns, but can lower turf quality and appearance. These weeds do not have the characteristics or growth habits that produce a quality lawn.
Annual grass-type weeds are those that germinate from seed each year and die at the end of the growing season. Annual weeds are prolific seed producers since seed germination is the method of producing the next year's generation of plants.
Crabgrass (Late Spring Annual Weed)
One of the most common and troubling grassy weeds.Yellow-green to a darker blue-green in color.Can be prostrate or upright growing.Multi-branched stems. Large crabgrass roots at the nodes.One
plant can produce over 150,000 seeds.
The U.S. and Canada have many grassy weeds with crabgrass being one the most problematic. There are two major species of crabgrass: smooth crabgrass (also called small crabgrass) and large crabgrass (also called hairy or common crabgrass). Smooth crabgrass is found mostly in the northern half of the U.S. and large crabgrass is found throughout the U.S. and southern Canada.
All crabgrass varieties are summer annuals that must come back each year by seed. It is a full sun grassy weed and will only tolerate very light, partial shade. It will not grow in shaded areas.
Crabgrass was originally introduced into this country as a possible forage crop. However, it easily escaped cultivation and is now widespread throughout the country. It is one of the most common and problematic weedy grasses in home lawns. It is also found on golf courses, parks, flower and vegetable gardens, athletic fields and any other place that seeds are able to germinate.
Crabgrass is most at home in areas of thin or poor quality turf. The plants grow quickly and can cover an entire yard by the end of summer.
Crabgrass is yellow-green in color with short, wide leaves. While the seedling look similar to other plants, they soon begin to distinguish themselves. In young plants, like the one in the photo to the left, the leaves are twice as long as they are wide. These young plants begin by growing prostrate with three or four stems branching out in a starfish pattern. As the plant matures the stems will curve in an upward direction. Each plant can produce as many as 700 new tillers (new leaf blades). At full maturity, each leaf will grow to be a few inches long. Crabgrass leaves have tiny hairs on both sides of the leaves.
The roots are shallow and fibrous and do not reach the depth of many other grasses. Large (hairy) crabgrass will root at the nodes and can produce long stolons. Smooth crabgrass does not root at the nodes.
The shallow root system works in their favor by absorbing as much water as possible before it reaches the deeper rooted plants. Frequent, shallow watering will cause crabgrass to flourish at the expense of other grasses. Less frequent, deep watering is better for your turfgrass, but will not neccessarily hinder crabgrass growth.
The photo above is of a mature crabgrass plant, while the photo below is of common bermuda grass.
The leaves of bermuda grass are much finer and are darker in color. Crabgrass seed heads are finger-like spikes that resemble common bermuda grass seed heads. However, crabgrass seed heads are somewhat thicker.
There are usually three to seven spikes that can either be folded up like a funnel or spread out in a whorl pattern. Each plant can produce as much as 150,000 seeds a year. Crabgrass germinates from seed each year when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for five consecutive days. The blooming of forsythia in your area closely coincides with the germination of crabgrass seeds.
Once the seed has germinated, crabgrass becomes difficult to control. Because of the prostrate growth habit, crabgrass can produce seed heads at mowing heights as low as inch. Mowing your lawn at a height lower than is healthy for your particular grass will only benefit and encourage crabgrass growth.
Crabgrass, like many there grassy weeds, do not like competition from turf grass. Crabgrass grows best in poor quality lawns, lawns cut and maintained too short, lawns with disease or insects damage, and in high traffic areas. Lawns with thin or deteriorating grass will give the seed plenty of sun, heat and space for seed germination. A poorly maintained lawn will guarantee that you will have increasing problems with broad leaf and grassy weeds.
If crabgrass is a problem, avoid fertilizing in late spring and summer. Especially avoid applications of high Phosphorus fertilizers. Phosphorus is essential for seedling growth and will only promote crabgrass establishment.
The best method of keeping crabgrass and other grassy weeds out of your lawn is to build a thick, healthy, vigorously growing turf. The first step is to ensure you have the right grass type for your area. Increasing the grass thickness can be accomplished by overseeding, plugging or laying sod, proper fertilization and irrigation. Until the lawn thickens, grassy weeds will continue to be a problem.
It is also important to mow your lawn at the highest recommend level for your specific grass type. This will shade the soil and make germination more difficult. Many cool season turf grasses can be mowed at a height of 3 to 4 inches. Depending on your grass type, see the Cool Season Grasses or the Warm Season Grasses Warm Season Grasses sections of this site for helpful mowing and planting information.
You may find it necessary to use a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent the seeds grassy weeds and other weeds from germinating.
The most effective and proven method of preventing crabgrass from starting is to use a pre-emergent herbicide. Preemergents are an added ingredient in many spring fertilizer. The bags will be labeled "with Crabgrass Control" or "Crabgrass Preventer", etc. Make sure you spread the fertilizer at the correct nitrogen (N) level for your grass type. For help developing a sound fertilizer program, read the page on Developing a Fertilizer Program.
A preemergent (also spelled pre-emergent or pre-emergence) herbicide works by preventing cell division on young plants. A preemergent doesn't actually prevent the seeds from germinating, as commonly believed. However, once the seeds do germinate, the chemical prevents the cells from dividing and the seed dies. In this way, the seeds are destroyed. An important note: Preemergents will have the same effect on most lawn grass seeds as well. Do not overseed directly before or within a few months after herbicide application or your seed may be ruined.
If you have waited too long and the crabgrass begins growing, preemergents usually have no effect. However, there is one product with the trade name "Dimension" (Chemical name: dithiopyr) that will give some control of seedling plants for a few weeks after emerging from the soil.
The effectiveness of some homeowner type preemergent herbicides is questionable. Some brands dont perform as well as others. The effectiveness is also related to how it was applied, the amount and frequency of irrigation, amount of rain received, etc. Keep in mind, if applied too early, the chemical can breakdown too soon allowing mid to late season seeds to germinate. Therefore, timing of the application is very important. Outside temperature and soil temperature are important. Remember, crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for five days in the top inch of soil. It is okay to water after the preemergent has been put down, but dont over water or water too frequently. Frequent, heavy irrigation or heavy rain places maxium stress on these herbicides.
For Established Weeds
Once the weeds are established, they are very difficult to control. Post-emergent herbicides labeled for grassy weeds will need to be used. Most products will require several applications for complete control. Products with MSMA or DSMA will control crabgrass as well as other weedy grasses. The Ortho company makes a product with these active ingredients. Add the correct amount of a sticker/spreader to the herbicide mixture for better adherence and absorption into the plant.
There is also the herbicide quinclorac under the trade name Drive. This is now available to homeowners and sold by Ortho under the name Weed-B-Gon MAX Plus Crabgrass Control Ready To Use. It contains other ingredients to help control broadleaf weeds as well.
The most popular preemergent for crabgrass and other grassy weeds is Corn Gluten Meal. Nick Christians, a turf specialist and university professor in Iowa, holds the patent.
Corn Gluten Meal is sometimes marketed as an organic weed killer for broadleaf and grassy weeds. Although it actually holds little or no weed killing properties, it is, however, an effective preemergent. It works by robbing the moisture of developing germinated seeds and seedlings.
A main difference between chemical preemergents and corn gluten meal is the amount applied. Corn gluten meal must be applied between 10 to 30 lbs 1000/sq.ft. Generally, 20 lbs/1000 sq. ft. is the average for most lawns. Use more for severe weed problems. It does not require a license to use.
Timing is important and it must go down near the time that seeds will germinate. After application, irrigate the corn gluten and allow a drying period. This is critical for effectiveness because it must absorb the surface moisture. In wet climates, such as the north western U.S., corn gluten meal may not be as effective. A second application can be made in the fall.
Keep in mind, with corn being used as fuel for vehicles, corn gluten meal is rising in cost. Shop for the best price.
Learn From the Mistakes of Others: Spraying your lawn with a a non-selective herbicide such as Round-up, etc is not an effective crabgrass control. Although it will kill all the grass and weeds it touches, the following year you will have only crabgrass and other broadleaf and grassy weeds that start from seed.
For lawns containing 50% or more weeds with thin or very little grass, a non-selective herbicide can be used if you plan on seeding or sodding soon after. Don't wait too long to renovate or the weeds will become established and you will have to do it again. Each grass type has a preferred time of year when it should be planted.
Read labels carefully and follow all label instructions. Note that MSMA and DSMA are not recommended for St. Augustinegrass, centipedegrass or carpetgrass.
Yellow and Green Foxtails (Summer Annual Weed)
Foxtails are a summer annual grassy weed. They get their name from the seedhead that resembles a fox's tail. They can spread quickly in sunny areas but less so in shade. The same preemergents that control crabgrass will also control foxtails.
Grassy weeds with characteristic cylindrical seed heads.Yellowish-green to blue-green leaves.Seed heads are 2-3 inch.Reproduces from seed only.Difficult to control once seeds have
Foxtails are a species of warm season, annual grassy weeds that starts from seed. It grows in full sun, but can tolerate very light, partial shade. It will not grow in shaded areas.
It develops from a fibrous root system and has a prostrate to upright growth habit. With mature plants, it is common to see the stems branching out at the base, remain prostrate for an inch or two and then curve upward at a 30 to 70 degree angle. Each plant can produce multiple stems that can easily grow twice the height of the leaves.
The coarse leaves are a yellowish-green to a darker blue-green color. They can grow to 12 inches long and up to inch wide. The leaves are flat and smooth. The widest part of the blade is at the base. The leaves have small silky hairs on the upper surface near the base.
Foxtails are known for their characteristic seed head that has a foxtail-like appearance. The seed head is at the end of the stalk and usually extends several inches above the leaves. Mature plant can have a dozen or more seed heads and can produce thousands of seeds each year. Seeds germinate when temperatures reach 68 degrees and will continue germinating through most of the summer. Foxtails will die at the first killing frost.
Giant foxtail is another foxtail species that grows 2-5 ft tall, but it cannot take repeated mowing. For this reason, giant foxtail is rarely found in mowed turf. Notice that the seed head of giant foxtail droops, while yellow and green foxtail seed heads do not.
The primary way of preventing the establishment and spread of foxtail is to maintain a thick, healthy lawn. Maintaining your lawn at the tallest mowing height recommended for your grass type will help slow seed germination.
Consistent, weekly mowing to remove the seed heads before they mature will also go a long way to deter spread. If you have only a few plants growing in your lawn, try removing them by pulling them up. The plant has a fibrous root system, however, some plants will root at the nodes near the base of the plant.
If you have had problems before with foxtails, the best way to stop their development is with a preemergent herbicide. These preemergents are added to spring fertilzers.
The same herbicides labeled for crabgrass will work on many other grassy weeds, including foxtails. Preemergents are added to spring fertilizer and will be labeled "with Crabgrass Control" or "Crabgrass Preventer", etc. Always check the label before using, however. Once the preemergent had been applied, moisture in the soil will activate it. Fertilizers need to be applied correctly in the amounts needed for your grass type and time of year. Scotts fertilizer brand as well as a few others are good homeowner fertilizers. Bargain brands may not give you the control over grassy weeds that you would like. Since fertilizer applicatons are based on the Nitrogen (N) needs of the grass you will need to know how much to apply. Click on the link for helpful information on Developing a Fertilizer Program.
Most preemergents are designed to last a few months before they begin to lose effectiveness. Not all active ingredients work equally well or have the same duration and homeowner varieties tend to last the least amount of time. This means that your timing will be very important. Important Note: Foxtails will germinate a few weeks to a month later than crabgrass. Something to remember when applying a preemgerent.
Once the seed germinates, the herbicide chemical stops cell division within the seed, so the plant never develops. As a result, the seed dies.
The preemergent herbicide label may list other broadleaf and grassy weeds that it controls. However, most are not very effective with broadleaf weed seeds.
For Established Weeds
Post-emergence herbicides will be needed once the foxtails have become established. The herbicides containing the active ingredients MSMA or MSDA are labeled for many grassy weeds, including foxtails. Read the label carefully and follow all label instructions. MSMA and DSMA are not recommended for use on St. Augustinegrass, centipedegrass or carpetgrass.
There is also the herbicide quinclorac under the trade name Drive. This is now available to homeowners and sold by Ortho under the name Weed-B-Gon MAX Plus Crabgrass/Grassy Weeds Control. It is a "Ready To Use formulation, meaning it comes already pre-mixed. It contains other ingredients including 2,4-D and Dicamba to help control broadleaf weeds as well.
Nimblewill Grassy Weed
Nimblewill is a grassy weed that resembles bermudagrass. It is most prominent when growing in cool season grasses. Find information on identification, growth habits, and control methods.
Winter Annual Broadleaf Weeds
With each spring comes a surge of winter annual broadleaf weeds. Here you will find valuable information about these difficult weeds including growth habits, photos, and measures that can be taken to control them.
Summer Annual Broadleaf Weeds
Many of the most problematic broadleaf weeds are annuals. Here you will find specific summer annual weed information, with weed names, photos and control methods.
Perennial Broadleaf Weed Identification Page 1
Click here for weed identification and control of common broadleaf perennial lawn weeds. This page has detailed information on Canada Thistle, Mouseear Chickweed, White clover, Dandelion, Field Bindweed, Ground Ivy, and Common Mallow.
Perennial Broadleaf Weed Identification Page 2
This page contains more perennial broadleaf weed identification and control methods. You can find detailed information on Buckhorn Plantain, Broadleaf Plantain, Red Sorrel, Wild Violets, and Common Yarrow.
Yellow and Purple Nutsedge
Nutsedge is a summer perennial grass-like weed. They can be particular problematic since they cannot be controlled by broadleaf weed herbicides. Click here for weed identification, growth habits and control methods.
Grassy Weeds to Lawn Care Academy Home
How to level the lawn
If you are a homeowner with a lawn, you already know that uneven areas of the lawn do not look good and they can also be a hazard to children, pets, and anyone who steps in an uneven dip. Luckily, the process of leveling a lawn is very simple and your reward will be a beautiful lawn free of uneven dips.
Before you get started, you will need to make sure you have all the equipment and supplies you need ahead of time. First of all, you will need a shovel that is square nosed. You will be able to spread the lawn mix with this type of shovel. You will also need a straight garden or solid bow rake to help with leveling. You will also want to purchase one or two buckets. You will use these for the spread mixture of compost and sand. Be sure to choose an orange sand instead of a playground or river sand when you are shopping for supplies. The other two types of sand will not harm your lawn, however, it is good to know that the orange sand will actually contain nutritive value and be finer for your lawn. In other words, it will be a smarter choice for your lawn while the other types of sand are fillers with no nutritive value.
The mix that you make will be used to fill in any uneven areas. After filling in the holes you will use the rake to level it with the surface of the lawn. This will even up any lower areas and allow your lawn to continue to grow evenly. The sand helps the mixture flow. Be sure to spread the mixture across any areas that need to be leveled and use the rake to ensure that the the holes are leveled with the surface of the lawn. After you have finished that part, you should let it settle for a little while. If you want to you, you can dampened it, but be sure not to wet it entirely. After waiting several hours, you should repeat the leveling and spreading process with a topsoil that is high quality. It is advisable to invest a little with high quality topsoil you can find at your local nursery where you can get the best quality and match for your money and area. Be sure to let it settle once again before spreading and raking one last layer of good compost over the uneven areas of your lawn.
While it may take awhile to level your lawn in these three stages, it is the best way to make sure that you will not have to redo your work a few weeks down the line when the soil begins to settle. Also, the layering technique of compost and sand, topsoil that is high quality, and a compost dressing helps to speed the growth process. It will make ultimately make your lawn grow faster and healthier. Therefore, it is better to put more time in now so that you can end up with a beautiful lawn.
It is very simple to level your lawn. Taking time to do the process right will bring out the very best in your lawn. If you need help with lawn care in Atlanta Georgia, give us a spin!
Solar Powered Lawn Care is Sustainable Lawn Care
We invented it!
It helps keep neighborhoods clean and gives our owners a competitive advantage in the gas guzzling lawn care industry.
Clean Air Lawn Care Solar Charging Unit
In 2006, Jon Giard (esteemed father of CEO Kelly Giard and retired electrical engineer) collaborated with Sunjuice and our lawn techs to design our first Clean Air Lawn Care Solar Charging Unit nicknamed Beatrice for her appreciation of all weather and NASA-like design issues.
In laymans terms, she captures the suns energy with a PV panel, stores that energy with batteries, and we plug into her when we need a boost just like plugging into the wall. The cool thing is she rides on top of each of our trucks so that were ready for whatever lawn care conditions might come up.
Since 2006, we've made numerous modifications and improvements so that now Beatrice powers our fertilizer sprayers, commercial blowers and string trimmers, and of course our mowers. Beatrice is also trained to eat gas cans if for some reason they end up in one of our trucks.
Its not you its me! When should you throw in the towel on the relationship with your current lawn care provider? I am a 15 year veteran in the industry, so Id like to offer my guidance.
We lets not make any snap judgments, remember, the next guy could be even worse! Maybe its easier to work it out with your current provider. Here are a few scenarios:
He missed a week Did it rain? Perhaps he is behind If it happens once or twice that's understandable, but if its an ongoing issue, its time for a change. After all he needs to be making your life easier.
He scalped the yard! Your precious yard. Not much that can be done here, and he probably doesn't know any better, this is a good sign that's its time to move on
He spilled gas, fertilizer, and weed killer and killed of a patch of the beloved lawn. OK, take a deep breath, lets give him the opportunity to make it right, if he doesn't have it replaced with new sod in a week or so, then its time for a new professional.
Your lawn isn't thick and healthy, he is doing a good job on the mowing part, but there is weeds and the turf is sparse. Well, that's a typical scenario, are you paying him for a turf fertilization and weed control program? No? Then its not his fault, if you are paying him for fertilization services, then its a better idea to have that part performed by a specialist that only does turf applications, and keep the mowing portion with your current guy. Rarely is one service great at both parts, they really are two totally different animals that require different disciplines and equipment.
One more. He wont mow you on the day you want, Friday Well this depends on how bad you want to be mowed on that specific day. The thing is everyone wants their lawn mowed on Friday, so you may have to pay a premium.
Before you make a rash changes , it would be a good idea to call around, get pricing, and interview other professionals BEFORE you cut him loose. When you do, jump on GreenPal, get 5 quotes back from the best pros from your area, in hours, not days.